Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
